shunter87, you asked for a way to fade the dark marks left behind by acne on
African-American skin, and we’re happy to deliver! It’s true that the
after-effects of blemishes can sometimes be worse than the bumps themselves,
so we turned to three derms for their tips on how to deal with scarring.
“First, it’s important to determine that the spots on the skin are not from
active acne pimples. Sometimes their reddish-brown color is confused with
dark pigmentation,” says NYC-based Judith Hellman, MD. “True pigmentation,
after the acne resolves itself, can be treated. First, it’s important to use sun
protection, because sun exposure will make the marks appear darker, even in
African-American skin. Second, a combination of products and treatments
should be used to fade the spots.” She recommends trying hydroquinone
bleaching creams and gels, which you can get from your derm (and should always be used under doctor supervision), or over the
counter in a less concentrated formula. “The bleaching cream should be used
together with a glycolic acid lotion or cream, depending on whether your
skin is oily or dry,” says Hellman. “Many dermatologists have these products
available in a 15-20 percent concentration in their office. Over the counter
alternatives include the Murad line, as well as the MD Formulations. Watch
out for over the counter products with a concentration of lower than 8
percent, since these will be less effective. Apply the cream in the morning
with the bleaching cream/gel.” Hellman advises to also throw topical Vitamin A in
the mix, such as Retin A, Tazorac, Differin, or Atralin, or OTC (over the
counter) retinol creams. “No matter what,” she says, “it takes patience and
time to have the spots fade. More advanced treatment options include
Glycolic Acid peels, microdermabrasions, and laser treatments. But caution
must be taken when performing laser treatments on darker skin tones, so make
sure to go to a reputable and experienced doctor. And remember, as long as
the acne itself isn’t treated, new dark marks will keep appearing. Even if
the marks fade due to treatment, it’s important to continue sun protection
to maintain the skin and prevent them from reappearing.”
Diane Berson, MD, another New York based dermotologist says, “Our first
choice would be a prescription topical retinoid. This will have two
benefits: it can fade pigmentation while at the same time help prevent new
ane lesions from developing, so for this reason it will be applied all over
the face.” Like Hellman, Berson recommends a hydroquinone product for more
stubborn areas of discoloration. “A prescription product containing both a
retinoid and hydroquinone is another good option.”
Finally, Harold Lancer, MD, from Los Angeles says, “One of the greatest
myths about people of African descent, or people with darker skin tones in
general, is that their skin is thicker, tougher, and less sensitive to
treatment. This is not true. Skin discolorations and dark spots from
injuries and chronic skin conditions such as acne can be treated if special
care is taken. Try my Anti-Acne LANCERx Method. The Blemish
Control Polish, a gentle skin resurfacing product containing a blend of
natural sea minerals and exfoliating enzymes should be used along with the
Exfoliating Blemish Cleanser and Rapid Redness Relief. The Exfoliating
Blemish Cleanser, a light foaming cleanser containing beta-hydroxy acid and
salicylic acid controls breakouts with its exfoliating beads.”